|
 pathBlazer Headlight Modulator - Frequently Asked Questions
Why won't my pathBlazer modulate in Lo-beam?
I am installing the splice-in version of the pathBlazer. Which wire on my bike do I cut?
I can’t put the chrome nacelle (or the fairing) back on after installing pathBlazer. What’s wrong?
I have installed my pathBlazer properly, but it won’t modulate. Why?
I have installed the Dual Hi/Lo (DHL) version of pathBlazer. What will happen at night?
I have the splice-in version of the pathBlazer and everything is hooked-up, yet the Hi-beam won’t even come on.
 tailBlazer Deceleration Warning - Frequently Asked Questions
10W-D doesn’t plug in properly in the socket. What should I do?
As soon as I turn the key on, the 10W-D begins to flash and applying the brakes doesn’t make any difference.
On my 100HD when I apply the brakes there’s no flashing, only a high frequency flicker. What’s going on?
I have hooked-up 100HD. When I apply brakes, nothing comes on. What’s wrong?
With my 25LED-D, LED lite-bar comes on but there’s no flashing with the brakes. Is the unit defective?
I have the 25LED-D but I also want my other brake lights to flash. Can I also install the 200GW?
 signalMinder Automatic Cancellation - Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the turn signal relay on my bike? I can’t find it.
I have 3-pin socket on the bike but only two pins are used. Do I need to install the 3rd pin?
I have installed the signalMinder but it won’t flash, nothing comes on. What do I do?
My signalMinder plugs in properly and I have attached the ground wire but it won’t start the flashing. It’s stuck ON.
signalMinder is different size and shape from the original flasher. How do I mount it?
I have an 8-pin relay next to the fuses but the signalMinder I received has no matching plug.
I already have running lights in the front. Do I still have to hook-up the option?
I have hooked up the Running Light option. And now the dash indicators are on all the time. What’s wrong?
My turn signal switch comes back to center. Do I need to install the Return springs?
I have installed the Return springs. But now the turn signals will flash only if I hold the switch down. What’s wrong?
 vectraLIGHT LED Arrays - Frequently Asked Questions
I am attempting to mount the LP-16 on my license plate and the mounting holes do not line-up. What do I do?
I ordered the matt black finish LPB-16 for my bike. I did not get the backing plate.
I plan to remove the turn signal lamps and the taillight housing. Can I use the LPC-16 by itself?
I just purchased VL-10 vectraLIGHTs to plug into my signalMinder. After I plug them in, nothing happens.
I have hooked-up VL-20 on my bike. The turn signals do not sequence. They all come on at once.
I have hooked-up my VL-20 but I don't like the bright red LEDs at night. Can I program them On/Off?
 chargeGUARD Monitoring and Chargers - Frequently Asked Questions
I cannot see the status LED on my chargeX. Can I extend the wires for the battery connections?
My chargeX has been charging the battery for the past 4 or 5 hours. Is there something wrong? Should I unplug it?
I replaced my battery with the new Gel-cell type. Do I have to reprogram the chargeX?
No matter what I do the chargeX keeps showing 2-flashes. What’s wrong?
I see the 3-flash GFIC warning once in a while, even though my garage outlet is protected and does not trip.
I use an extension cord for the chargeX. Sometimes it shows a fast charge and others it shows full charge.
My temperature display has all of a sudden changed to 5° lower.
The AMP display stays mostly around 0 to 3 Amps, even at higher RPMs. Is this normal?
 tireAlert v2.0 Tire Pressure Monitor - Frequently Asked Questions
All plug-in versions of pathBlazer are designed to modulate in the Hi-beam only. Even for the splice-in versions, we highly recommend for the Hi-beam modulation. It is much easier to control the modulation in daytime with the Hi-beam.
The best source for answer is your Owner’s Manual. We have identified the colors for the most popular makes but even that can change from year to year. So, please refer to the Owner’s Manual and use a Voltmeter or a test light to be sure.
There are “flat back” units available, which do not require any additional space. Please verify the correct application for your bike.
pathBlazer circuit is designed to be on by default. Properly connected and programmed Daylight sensor forces the unit to modulate. Check connections, including the splice-in versions for the correct polarity and make sure you are in sufficient daylight with Hi-beam on.
At night or in the dark, the modulation will cease and both beams will stay on steady – if the Hi-beam is switched on.
A good ground connection is required for the pathBlazer circuitry to work. Without ground, or with an isolated ground point, the unit will not start.
The integrated 10W-D unit has an indexed bayonet base, so it can only be inserted with correct orientation. Refer to diagram on page-3 to see how the pins are indexed.
If the base feels too tight to be able to twist-in, you may have to file the solder bumps a little to reduce interference.
If the base feels too loose and makes intermittent connection, you can pull-up on the spring contacts of the socket to gain a little more retaining force.
There are two possibilities.
Referring the diagram on page-3, check to make sure the socket on the bike is wired correctly. Hint: the brake voltage should be present at the contact next to pin closest to the base.
Or, the brake switch on the bike a bit sticky. This is usually the foot brake switch. tailBlazer is triggered by brake voltage with very little current. With the switch set too close to the foot pedal, a small amount of current can pass through. It may not be enough to turn a 27W tail bulb on, but it’s enough to trigger the tailBlazer.
Note! On some older bikes or European models, the taillights must be on to power the 10W-D unit otherwise the circuit is not powered.
As soon as you turn the key on, the tailBlazer should come on full bright for about a half second, then drop down to lower intensity.
Refer to the Installation Guide for proper connections. Reversing the input/output will not damage the unit but the flash pattern will be inhibited.
Note! All splice-in tailBlazer models have the same polarity.
The unit must be grounded to a good chassis ground. Remove any paint on the surface where you are attaching ground wire. You should have good metal-to-metal connection.
Note! All splice-in tailBlazer unit require a good ground connection.
If the lite-bar comes on with the ignition, it is working. The trigger voltage for the flash pattern requires 11.9 volts. You may have to start the engine and then apply the brakes to trigger the flash pattern.
Note! Above applies to 25LED-LT as well.
Yes, adding the 200GW will modulate the trunk lights. Whenever there are multiple units installed, the flash pattern will be extended beyond the 4-second interval.
Note! The splice-in tailBlazer units as single input device do not have running light conversion feature but dual input units can also be added.
Please refer to your Owner’s Manual or the Wiring Diagram of your bike.
There are too many variations to cover. The relay could be integrated with kickstand interlock or the dash circuit board. It could be hidden under the gas tank or behind the dash. When possible, for more popular models, we have identified the location in the Installation Guide.
Yes, the 3rd pin with a ground wire is supplied in the SM-3 package. It is required for the circuit to work properly.
If your signalMinder came with a ground wire, it must be attached firmly to a good ground location. Make sure the spot you have chosen is free of paint, doesn’t have any plastic washers etc. It should be a clean metal surface of the chassis or the use the negative post of the battery.
The polarity of the socket on the bike may be reversed. Look at the diagram of the socket – top left corner of the page – and compare. If you have to switch them, use a jeweler’s screwdriver to release the pins.
You can leave the original flasher in its holder. Find a suitable location nearby and use the Velcro pad supplied to attach the unit.
A: The SM-3SV unit you received requires one wire splice. The original relay stays in place. Follow the instructions in the Installation Guide.
You don’t have to, but hooking it up will enable the other built-in features of the signalMInder. Not only will you gain additional conspicuity in the back with two more lights, you will also have 4-Way flash and Escort mode flash capability.
The dash indicator bulbs are wired together with the turn signal lamps on your bike, so they will also stay on dimly. While using the turn signals, they will indicate properly by flashing brightly.
If you do a lot of nighttime riding and the indicators glare bothers you, you can reduce the intensity with DIP Switch#1. If you have Euro version software, you turn off the running lights altogether.
If you have already hooked up the Running Light option, installing the Return springs is the next logical step. As discussed on page-20, the handlebar switch is electrically latched inside. Just because the outside lever returns to center does not mean it is in neutral.
Installing the Return springs gives you the freedom of not having to push the lever in to cancel, which is the same as releasing the latch.
Even after the push-to-cancel action is defeated with the Return springs, you can still stop the flashing by going back to the same side once more. The same-side-cancel feature is available if the Running Light connections are made.
You have not made the Running Light option connections. Without the Running Light option hooked up, as soon as the turn signal switch comes to neutral, there’s no continuity. signalMinder needs alternate paths, so it can supply the current to the turn signal bulbs.
All license plate vectraLIGHT products are designed for the harmonized standard adopted in the US. Many European and Canadian plates are different shapes. Since the mounting tabs are hidden behind the license plate, you can either screw-in the LED array directly on the bike or use a spacer plate.
The chrome backing plate is supplied with the LPC-16 product, since it is required for most cruiser style motorcycles. You can request one and we will ship it at no charge.
We do not recommend the exclusive use of License Plate vectraLIGHTs as the taillight accessory. It is designed as auxiliary lighting equipment.
The DOT requirements for the primary lighting for your bike specifies many factors such as: minimum distance between the right and left turn signal lamps, minimum light output per lamp, the license plate illumination requirement etc.
License Plate vectraLIGHTs were not designed to incorporate such requirements and we make no such statements to that effect. They are auxiliary lighting accessory to enhance your visibility in traffic.
All signalMinder, except the SM-5, SM-5 and SM-3R models, must have the Running Light option hooked-up to power the VL-10 via the
RJ-11 ports. Similarly the Brake Override option must also be hooked-up to activate the VL-10 brake feature.
VL-10 is designed as a remote unit, driven by the host signalMinder. It will inherit all of the settings you select for the signalMinder, such as the running light intensity and time-out.
VL-20 is a stand-alone unit and does not depend on the signalMinder hook-ups.
Most common error in hooking up the VL-20 is that the Power Input (red wire) is connected to the low intensity wire of the turn signals. For most single turn signal switch equipped bikes, this wire has power only when the switch is in neutral. As soon as you activate right or left turn, the high intensity wire gets the power and the low intensity wire looses the power.
You should find another source of constant power with ignition key On.
A: That feature is not programmable. You can reposition the array such that it’s more forward and the LEDS are barely visible to you as you sit on the bike thus shielding your eyes. If that’s not possible, then you can disconnect the brake input (black wire).
That is one option. An extended length (4ft) harness is available.
chargeX has built-in multiple charging programs stored in its memory. Once it is connected to the battery and plugged into AC outlet, it begins the process of determining the type of battery, state of battery charge and to check for any sulfate build-up on the battery plates - if plugged in long enough.
That’s why it’s best to keep the chargeX plugged in for at least 12 hours to let it execute all applicable program cycles and retain the best match in memory. Next time, only the optimum program cycles will be executed. This memory retention is valid for as long as the chargeX remains connected to the battery.
No, the chargeX will automatically detect the new battery type and adopt the most efficient charging program to execute.
chargeX is an on-board 12v charger. It’s operating range is 6v – 14v. Anything below 6v is interpreted as an open connection.
The GFIC fault detection of chargeX is quite sensitive and quick acting. It will detect a short voltage drop, a brownout or a voltage spike well before typical mechanical wall outlet. Sometimes an inductive load of a garage door opener can also cause it. Try using a different outlet or check the polarity of the wall plug.
If the extension cord is not polarized, the ground reference for the chargeX can be wrong depending on how the cord is plugged in. Always use a polarized extension cord.
This is most typically due to water collecting at the RJ11 connector of the Temp Sensor. If you see water or corrosion there, you can clean it with alcohol on a Q-tip. Also check the AMP readings, if they are also lower then the RJ11 connector at the Shunt may need cleaning too.
Since the Current Sensor is monitoring the current flow at the battery only the energy input to the battery is shown. The amount needed to replenish what was used to crank the engine usually takes a few seconds. Thereafter the battery won’t accept any more charge, so nominal values of Amp are what you see for a fully charged battery.
|
